TWINS on the LOOP - 2010: February 2010

Starting in 1908, work commenced on a major hurdle known as the Seven Mile Bridge. From Marathon to Little Duck Key, 546 concrete piers would be needed to bridge the gap, the longest stretch of open water on the route. Pigeon Key is located about midway across the Seven Mile Bridge, and this tiny coral island would serve as a base camp for the construction. As many as 400 workers would be housed on the island during the construction, which went on for almost four years. Working conditions were atrocious, and many men were lost during the 1906 hurricane, which struck Long Key. Mosquitoes were a major problem in the mangrove swamps of the Keys. All fresh water had to be transported in from the mainland, even water to be used for mixing the concrete. Old photos show tank trains of large cypress wood casks loaded on flatcars being sent out as construction edged further west. Costs mounted, but Henry Flagler, now in his late 70’s did not waver. At last the magnificent engineering feat was completed. On January 22, 1912 Flagler’s private car, Rambler, left Miami with the old tycoon and other dignitaries in tow. The Overseas Railroad was a reality! Less than two years later, Henry Flagler died at his palatial home in Palm Beach, Florida.

In 1904, Henry Flagler announced he would build a railroad from Miami to Key West. Critics scoffed. Engineers were aghast. His business partners wondered if the old gentleman was quite sane. A determined Flagler would be the driving force to accomplish the Key West extension, and Florida’s remote tropical island paradise would never be the same.

As it is inherent with cruising the waters of this earth, one is never really sure of where you are going. Oh, yes, while we have generalities of direction and expectations of destination, one is never surprised to find a new destination while charting the daily course or seeking the evenings stay. Gunkholers have often found that for one reason or another, their plans change. It happened to us on the Tenn Tom when some other boaters were trespassing on our anchorages and we had to put up with the infamous Bobby’s Fish Camp. The weather also often dictates reality.

And again, late last fall sometime we found ourselves crossing from Apalachicola to Carrabelle in anticipation of the Big Bend crossing. (that’s another story posted unto itself) While stopping at Miller Marine, we asked the dockmaster about the waters out in Apalach Bay and were suggested it was ok. Maybe we should have further inquired about St George Sound to the east as that body of water kicked up some good waves and by the time we reached Dog Island we were in the confused waters of East Pass and the Gulf of Mexico, a veritable washing machine cycle. After nearly grounding on a shoal, we decided the anchorage at Government Bay would not be favorable and upped our engines to make nearby Carrabelle before nightfall. Smashing waves and salt water everywhere!

That evening was the local boat parade for Christmas and we decompressed tied to a dock. The next morning brought thick fog that seems to hang heavy and only thin and lift slightly before closing in again. A number of boats already staged at the marina’s gauged the fog and finally pushed out as a flotilla into the din about noon. As it turned out this was a lucky window. Radio traffic indicated the fog continued to be an issue for some time. We were happy to relax another day and expected the fog to be gone by the time we departed the next day. It was not to be.

As the day wore on we heard a friendly voice from the bridge of Queen Anne’s Revenge. We had talked to Hank and Ann via phone and they’d indicated they might make Carabelle too and were looking for a friendly boat to cross The Bend with. (We first met Queen Ann at the Joe Wheeler Rendevoux in 2008 and again when walking the marina at Grand Haven last fall.) Queen Ann was moving east in heavy fog, calling out their location as they went. Another boat, Mint Julep was also out in that pea soup and they indicated they were anchored at Government Bay behind Dog Island. We had gone as far as to disconnect our shore power and throw off lines that afternoon as we had intended to leave the marina and stage at Government Bay as well. But as quickly as the fog lifted, it closed in again and we abandoned hope of the anchorage, signing up for another night. We walked down to a neighboring marina to welcome Queen Anne from the fog and agreed to accompany them the next day.

The next morning the fog continued to be thick and never let up. I called Mint Julep but was unable to raise them as (I found out later) they had left to cross to Clearwater the night before. We traded messages with Queen Ann and subsequently left about 1pm in heavy fog as the weather window was favorable (except for the thick fog). Hank is an old airplane pilot so we asked him to lead us through the mess out into the Gulf. Other boats were seen on radar and then popping out of the fog in the channel including a 90’ Research Vessel. Other boaters yelled their caution to us “It doesn’t get any better out there”, but we made it out and led across the Gulf of Mexico safely arriving at our friends dock at Treasure Island some 20 hours and 195 miles later.

And 24 hours later we were backing out of our free slip at the Mayor’s house and reentering the ICW. Another boat is cruising by within a comfortable traveling length so we fall in behind them and raise the binoculars to find that it is Mint Julep. VHF introductions are made and we spend the day cruising the ICW together on down past Tampa Bay and though the VHF discussionary agree to try the dock at Moore’s Stone Crab House, a fine restaurant on Longboat Key that allows an overnight stay with dinner. We dock and catch lines for Pam and Bob Shircliff on their “new” Jefferson 42, a boat they just recently purchased and cruised down the rivers from home in Louisville KY….home of the Mint Julep.

Another day and we’re off down the ICW toward Venice. Mint Julep has decided to run outside and they enter the Gulf via Longboat Pass. It’s an easy day on the ICW and we jog along waiting for the bridge openings and enjoying the inside route. At some point as we approach Venice, we receive a call from Pam or Bob, via radio or cell phone, don’t remember which, that they are coming inside due to a mechanical issue. Bob has black smoke coming from one engine, a problem that some weeks later is determined to be due to different prop pitch causing one to work harder than the other! So we motor around the corner into Venice and find the the Free Dock is empty and welcoming to our small flotilla of two. We tie up with extra lines to the bow as the winds are picking up and once again wait for the incoming boat so we can help with the docking lines.

Another nice evening is spent with new friends. In boating, and maybe particularly true with Loopers, these impromptu gatherings are common. Sharing stories, talking about personal histories, asking questions about boats, destinations travelled and destinations yet to come. We share beers and cigars in the adjacent pavilion giving thanks to the local governments that have so nicely appropriated space for the travelling boater. One night only please! We learn that Pam and Bob are headed down the ICW another day and planning a layover at Burnt Store Marina where they have a condominium and are renting a dock slip to do some more work on their old boat before continuing the loop. We talk about the Bahamas, and a hundred other things. The next morning we both shove off again, us to our destination for a month at Palm Island Marina and them to their place on Charlotte Harbor.

Such it is that new friendships are made. We almost book New Years Eve with them at Cabbage Key, but Sara and the twins will still be on Palm Island that night so we stay close. We get within a short hop of them again though with our three hour New Years Eve Day cruise to Punta Blanca Island, just around the corner from the famous Cabbage Key and Useppa Island. Later trading emails with various information on ActiveCaptain and making joint plans for the Bahamas, we agree to come down to the Shircliff Condo at Burnt Store Marina for a night. One Friday night at their place, multiple internet searches of residential listings, a few bottles of wine, hot tub, a stroll through the artists at Matlace, dinner at Tarpon Lodge, a windshield tour of Burnt Store Marina in the rain. It’s a few hundred acre complex of completed dwellings. It’s been around for a number of years and is a mature community with well developed landscaping. It’s not Disney, but it looks well maintained and comfortable….we like it!

….…we go back Monday to look at properties.

.…..find a place we like a lot.…buy a condo

…a start another chapter in life

And as I write this history, we sit a few slips down from Mint Julep in Marathon, just a few slips down from where I last saw Queen Anne’s Revenge. It can be a very small world sometimes, and it seems particularly when cruising!